Post-peel Pictures 9-2012

I started this year's chemical peels aggressively at 18% TCA with a pH level of .6 - so I expected to peel. I diluted my 50% Dermalure TCA Chemical Peel.

On Sunday night, after cleansing to remove my homemade lotion, sunscreen, and powder, which is what I normally wear every day, I used alcohol to remove any remaining oils.

I started by applying an even layer of the chemical peel solution using a fan brush only to my trouble area, which is around my mouth. I don't usually use one, but I decided to try one this year to see if I could do a better job with evening out the solution, and I do think it helped.

After about one minute, I applied another layer...and did that two more times. I kept a hand-held fan on my face during this process because it burns.

Here's the frost:

Chemical Peel Frost

I waited a total of five (5) minutes from my initial application then neutralized with spring water and immediately applied my lotion potion. I normally use Neova Complex CU3 post-laser lotion (with copper), but I decided to try my own homemade lotion to see if I could improve my peel & heal time and results by using something minimalist. I don't really know if it helped or not :-/ but it certainly made me feel better knowing that I wasn't slathering a bunch of preservatives on my new skin. It actually took me one extra day to finish peeling using my homemade lotion instead of the CU3 with copper, so I may end up going back to it for my next peel. It's important NOT to use a copper-based lotion daily unless healing.

Since I left for Florida the next day, I was a bit red around my mouth, but I just dabbed blush on the other parts of my face to even it out, rather than trying to deal with applying concealer to my sensitive, burned skin.

By day three, the leathery, cracking skin began. I tried to take pictures with my iphone and ipad, but none of them came out well (I forgot to take my good camera with).

Day 3 (never a pretty day):

Day 3

By day 4, I was in full peel mode, which can be disturbing, so I tried to hide most of this day, although being in Florida, I think people who did see me thought I had gotten a bad sunburn!

Day 4

After the peeling finished, around the end of day 5, the pinkness also subsided. By day 6, I was back to normal. Here are my before and after pictures (unfortunately, the lighting is different, so I need to figure out why...maybe different time of day, but I always take my pictures in the same place):

BEFORE:

Two days BEFORE Chemical Peel - nothing on

AFTER:

Day 6 - nothing on

Day 6 After Chemical Peel - sunscreen and powder

I'm planning to start my retinol tomorrow night, which will be day 7 - one full week after I applied the TCA chemical peel. If my skin were still red or irritated, I would NOT start any products with retinol.

Chemical Peel Tips

I am starting to peel!  I'm having problems figuring out how to include a picture from my ipad, but I'll keep trying.  The white goup is my homemade, personalized lotion, which thanks to one of my readers, I added zinc for UV coverage since I'm in Florida and didn't want to risk exposure of any new skin.  Shout out to Kim for that great suggestion!

Since I am in the middle of a peel, I've had to do a number of things I wouldn't always do--to get the best results, so I thought I'd share them here.

Remember, these are things that I like to do, but they're not always possible - check with a doctor before making dietary changes.

Avoid:
Coffee and caffeine (these reduce circulation of blood)
All grains (these convert to glucose and sugar slows healing), which includes bread, cereal, pasta, rice, etc.
Alcohol (again, this is sugar)
Too much exercise - let your body focus on healing faster
Harsh products applied to peeling area
UV exposure
Picking or pulling peeling skin

Try to:
Keep the area moist, especially before and during eating
Drink as much spring water as possible

Relax as much as possible

Eat raw all week (organic vegetables and low-sugar fruits); spring rolls with fish from whole foods are one of my meal staples during a peel; eating raw is the best way to get antioxidants into your body

If you can't eat raw fish, use wild caught cold-water fish and broil in olive oil

Before Picture 2012

To determine if a chemical peel is working for me, I like to compare before and after results, and the only way to do that—for me—is to take pictures. When comparing results, it’s hard for me to see discernible differences after only one application of a chemical peel.
 
So, here’s my end of the summer 2012 close up BEFORE picture, without makeup or sunscreen. Yes, I’ve religiously worn a chemical-free zinc-based sunscreen daily, and I’ve donned a hat when possible or even used some of my students’ papers to shield my face. It does seem extreme, I know.

Before 2012 Chemical Peels - No Makeup or Sunscreen

 
I’ll be 49 in three short months, so I do have to be extreme with my face. Although I still have several acne scars around my chin, I believe my extreme caution, along with a series of conservative at-home chemical peels each winter, have helped.
 
So here’s your reminder, if you’re starting your chemical peels soon, start taking pictures!
 
I’ll be doing my first TCA chemical peel either tonight or tomorrow night, but I may not be able to post pictures until next weekend. I’ll be away at a conference this week, and may not have access, depending on my hotel room.

Homemade Unscented Lotion

I’m preparing for my first peel this season by making my own post-peel and heal lotion. I’m sick of all the chemicals and unnatural ingredients in everything I see. I decided to make something especially for my skin that would promote healing without irritating with fragrances, fillers, and chemicals.

After searching for homemade lotion potions, I attempted to make a few batches with a couple of different ingredients, made a few of adjustments, and have come up with a good recipe!

Ingredients

¼ cup distilled or pure water
¼ cup natural or organic oil or shea butter - whatever suits your skin **
1 tablespoon grated natural or organic beeswax

1 tablespoon natural aloe vera (optional)

**Shea butter is the best for a non-greasy feeling lotion, but see the listing below for oils based on skin type

Some recipes called for essential oils, which I find appealing for a body lotion, but I wanted something with no irritating additives or scents for my post-chemical peel healing.

I also used a grater, blender, pot, measuring cup, measuring spoon, and glass tub or pump.

Mixing

I put the oil and beeswax into a glass cup and set that in a pot of water on the stove, heat set to medium. It took about 4-5 minutes for the wax to melt (it won’t completely dissolve, but the shape becomes limp and the wax becomes more translucent than what you see in this picture).

After taking the cup of oil/wax mixture out of the pot, I poured the water into my blender and started blending on high with the top on.

Next, I slowly poured the oil/wax mixture into the blending water through the hole at the top, and it started emulsifying after about half of the mixture was in (it starts turning white). Clean up is messy!

I decided to fold in the Aloe Vera after I put the mixture into the glass tub. Note: left-over water that didn't mix into the lotion means a higher speed on the blender is necessary.

That’s it! Chemical-free, unscented lotion made for my skin to promote healing after my chemical peel. I may end up using it all the time!

Storage

Because there are NO preservatives in this lotion, I plan to use it all within a week; it could easily last longer, especially if I keep it in the fridge, but that's not convenient and who likes cold lotion?

Although I’m currently storing my lotion in a glass tub, I plan to go out and find a nice glass pump.

Usage

Remember, too much of a good thing...is NOT a good thing. I've noticed that I need only a small dab of this lotion after I cleanse. It really does a great job of moisturizing and locking that moisture in. I have acne-prone skin, so I always start slowly with any new product to see how my skin reacts. I'm loving this so far!

Selecting an Oil

OIL (skin type)	BENEFITS
Almond, Sweet Oil  (for combo, irritated, sun-damaged skin)	Non-greasy, rich in vitamins A, B1, B2 and E, ideal for irritated skin, helps balance the skin, evens the skin tone, smoothes wrinkles and soothes itchy skin.
Apricot Kernel Oil  (for combo, reactive, sensitive skin)	High in vitamins A, B and E, easily absorbed by the skin, relieves itchiness, protects skin against the elements and nourishing.
Argan Oil  (dry, melasma, irritated, sun-damaged, mature skin)	Heals damaged skin, lightens scars, smoothes skin, gives skin glowing appearance, high in unsaturated fatty acids, retains moisture and soothes irritated and inflamed skin.
Avocado Oil  (mature, dry, sun-damaged skin)	Helps skin to produce collagen, high in vitamins A, B, D and E, relieves skin damaged by the sun and soothes dry skin.
Grapeseed Oil  (oily, mature skin)	Rich in antioxidants that are more powerful than vitamins C and E, ideal for cleansing the face as it removes grease effectively, aids the skin with the production of collagen and locks in moisture.
Hazelnut Oil  (sun-damaged, irritated, oily skin)	Lightens dark spots and acne scars, soothes irritated and inflamed skin, easily absorbed by skin and a great astringent.
Jojoba Oil  (acne-prone, red/irritated, oily skin)	Nourishes the skin, anti-inflammatory, breaks down sebum in clogged pores, good for sensitive skin and rich in vitamins E and B.
Olive Oil  (mature, dry, irritated skin)	Gives a radiant and glowing complexion, high in antioxidants, maintains the elasticity of skin and regulates sebum.
Sunflower Oil  (mature, oily skin)	Rich in Vitamin A, D and E, thin and not greasy and anti-aging.

Time to Peel

With the start of school, already two weeks ago, I have been super busy, but this time of year also means the start of my TCA chemical peel series.

I don’t do medium chemical peels during the summer (to reduce UV exposure to newly peeled skin). Being in Illinois where it gets crazy cold and snows for months, I have a great opportunity during the winter to do a series of peels without the risk of UV exposure (that I usually have during the summer since I’m outside so much more).

Occasionally, I will do a 30% glycolic acid peel during the summer if I have an acne flare up, but I’m at the point now where I only need one, or possibly two, during the entire summer, and I make sure to protect myself carefully from UV rays afterward.

That being said, it’s time to start preparing for this season’s chemical peel series. I dug out my generic Retin-A last night and applied it for the first time since the spring. This is available from Amazon; I don't get it from a doctor, but it's prescription strength! I use .6% retinol cream but I generally have sensitive skin. If I did not have sensitive skin, 1% retinol would be my choice for a more aggressive preparation, which will yield better results for the entire peel series.

I’ll use the retinol cream 1-2 times a week for two more weeks before my first peel, which I have scheduled for September 20th.

My first chemical peel will be a 12.5 to 15% TCA solution with a pH level of .6 which means I will peel.