Do Retinoids Thin my Skin?

The answer is no, so why does my esthetician keep telling me that they do? According to Dr. Leslie Baumann, a board-certified dermatologist and a New York Times best-selling author, here’s why there’s confusion:

Imagine the two layers of skin that we can affect with retinoids: the epidermis (outer layer exposed to the environment) and dermis (the layer under the epidermis that provides the supporting structure).

The epidermis is covered by a very thin layer of dead skin cells called the stratum corneum. Cells are born from beneath and make their way to the surface, but by the time they arrive, they’re dead, causing the skin to look dull and aged. The cells clump together and form hills and valleys in areas of frequent movement.

OCT retinoids as well as prescription strength retinoids loosen the bonds between these dead cells, which allows them to slough off, revealing smoother skin, so when my esthetician tells me that retinoids thin my skin, she is right, but only to a degree. The skin that sloughs away is already dead and in people over 40, the skin really benefits from this process because the cycle of natural exfoliation has nearly doubled since the age of 20.

What my esthetician isn’t telling me is that the retinoid is actually thickening the dermal layer, where deeper wrinkles reside. This layer is where collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid form—and retinoids have proven in clinical settings to increase their production, thickening the dermis and evening out those wrinkles.

Further, retinoids have even been proven to repair skin atrophied through use of steroids as well as UV damage.

So that’s the story. Retinoids are great for my over-40 skin! They’re available in prescription strength, but studies show that even OTC products produce results.

Chemical Peel for Eyes

Applying chemical peel agents on the skin around the eyes is risky business. For several years, I’ve been using a mild retinol product developed specifically for the delicate skin around the eyes, which does produce very mild flaking (visible only if I look into my 10x mirror) every couple of weeks with no noticeable dryness or irritation.

I use retinol ONLY at night; the fact is that retinol products should NEVER be used during the day because the active ingredient rapidly breaks down when exposed to UV rays (directly and indirectly) and causes oxidation -- free radicals, according to several clinical studies. Use of retinols in daytime products can actually make skin age faster, yet daytime products continue to contain them.

I've often wondered if I should boost my nighttime retinol's ability to increase collagen by using an occasional chemical peel around my eyes. To find out, I mixed a solution of 6.25% TCA (pH level of 1) and applied it to the outer section of my left eye; I selected this area because my hair falls over it most of the time, so I can conceal it easily.

Not prepping this area with alcohol or acetate, I simply cleansed the sunscreen and powder using cetaphil and applied one layer with a cotton swab then applied moisturizer about two minutes later on top of the application. I never rinsed it off.

That same night, I applied the solution above my lip, just to compare healing time. The area above my lip flaked two days later, but nothing had happened to the area around my eye. It took nearly five days for the area of my eye skin to flake! I had totally given up on it until I looked in the mirror saw the flakes.

6.25% TCA Peel around the eyes

The really great aspect of this low-percentage TCA peel is that I had no irritation or leathery look while the process occurred, but it’s a double-edged sword: downside is the low percentage of acid used will take more chemical peel applications to generate more collagen synthesis.

Applying high-percentage TCA peels around the eyes is risky, something I would probably have my doctor do. This skin around the eyes is 10X thinner than the skin on other parts of the face! As we age, skin loses its elasticity and becomes even thinner due to a breakdown of collagen. This can be further aggravated by sun exposure, smoking, and other environmental exposures.

The skin of the eye contour is constantly moving, blinking alone produces 10,000 movements per day! Other facial movements and expressions such as smiles, squinting, and stress can also affect the eye area, creating fine lines or crows feet.

The epidermal layer gives the skin its appearance, color, suppleness, texture, and health. Basal cells reproduce new cells every few days. As these cells migrate upward, they become drier and flatter.  Once they reach the surface of the skin, they are no longer alive. This process of migration from basal cell to corneocytes is what gives the epidermis the ability to regenerate itself. This ongoing process takes about two weeks in a young person and about 35 days for individuals over 50.

The buildup of the flat dry cells gives skin that aged look. The skin feels and looks like crepe paper, and its ability to retain water becomes impaired. Rubbing and tugging of the delicate skin under the eye due to allergies, crying, eye makeup removal, and insertion and removal of contact lenses can contribute to sagging of the this area. The skins elasticity is similar to a rubber band - constant tugging and pulling eventually causes loss of elasticity.

Using physical exfoliation of this skin is out of the question, so a chemical exfoliant is really the only way to go, but selecting the right product is key. Because this skin is so fragile and thin, a higher pH product is better in the long run with frequent use to keep the renewal process in motion, a product for night time use with retinol is probably my favorite pick.

Will I ever do a higher strength chemical peel on the skin around my eyes? Maybe, but I'm not ready just yet.

Adult Acne and Melasma

Mandelic acid may be a good choice of chemical peels for adult acne, hyperpigmentation, and/or melasma  if glycolic acid isn't working.

Mandelic is an alpha hydroxy acid made from the extract of bitter almonds; it has strong antibacterial properties and the ability to lighten skin, which makes it perfect for treating acne (not just for adults) that is present along with discoloration.

Mandelic acid penetrates the skin more slowly than glycolic acid because its molecular size is larger, thereby staying active on the surface longer, which makes it ideal for treating acne and discoloration.

Mandelic acid has a longer neutralization period and it's not irritating, so it will stay active on the face longer, which also contributes to its ability to fight acne and discoloration effectively.

There are several studies touting the power of mandelic acid for adult acne, melasma, and hyperpigmentation—even wrinkles; here are a couple: Mandelic-salicylic acid combo peel vs. glycolic acid and
Mandelic acid for melasma and adult acne

Mandelic acid products are available in different forms, and a couple of the most popular are M2 Skin Care HP Skin Refinish 20% and NuCelle Mandelic Serum 15%. There’s also a cleanser form that gets good reviews: M2 Skin Technologies Exfoliating Cleanser. I like these because they have good reviews by people who have used them, but there are many others.


I have never used mandelic acid, but I wish I would have known about it ten years ago when my adult acne started. I also had malasma when I took BCPs, so it would have been the perfect product for me!

Mandelic acid has long been used in the medical community as an antibacterial, particularly in the treatment of urinary tract infections, as well as an oral antibiotic. Its use as a skincare was pioneered by James E. Fulton, M.D., who developed tretinoin (Retin A). On the basis of this research, dermatologists now suggest mandelic acid for a wide variety of skin concerns, but especially melasma, acne, and hyperpigmentation.