Should I prep before my TCA Peel?

Should I prep my skin with a light peeling agent before doing a TCA chemical peel? Most dermatologists' websites state that they have their patients prep with Retin-A and/or other products for about a month before a medium peel. I've always done it on my face, so why didn't I do it on my chest?

What happens if I don't prep? From what I've read, the peel can be uneven, some areas of skin absorbing the solution more than others, which results in a better peel in some, but not all areas of application.

I decided to test the theory, to see if I really need to prepare my skin for a TCA peel. I’ve never done a TCA chemical peel on my chest before, and I haven't applied any prepping solution such as retin-a, or any other type of peeling agent.

To remove any oils or residue from moisturizing products, I started with an alcohol prep.

I used the remaining 30% TCA peel solution I had from my facial patch test and applied it only to the area of my chest that is exposed to UV rays during the summer.

This picture is before any application of TCA peel solution:
Chest before TCA peel

I used my fingers because I didn’t have much of the solution, and I thought that too much would be wasted in the cotton if I used swabs. I was careful to apply the solution evenly to avoid any uneven peeling due to application errors since I wanted to see if prepping really made a difference.

I applied three (3) layers, one right after the other, and I thought I was methodical in the application so that all the areas were equally treated, but it was apparent right away that some areas absorbed the solution faster.

Chest frosting after 30% TCA peel

As soon as I saw the uneven frosting, I applied neutralizing solution I had prepared ahead of time and dabbed it on ONLY those areas that frosted early.

After about five minutes, I applied Procyte CU3 Complex. Since copper peptides should be used ONLY when exfoliating, I will apply daily until I start peeling, then I will stop.

This is the next morning. The dark areas absorbed the TCA solution faster. I'm disappointed that I didn't get a very even peel. I believe that's because I didn't prep for this with Retin-A or some other light peeling agent. :-(

30% TCA peel, day 1

So, I believe that prepping for a TCA peel is really important. I've always done it on my face and gotten a nice, even peel when I did the TCA. Here on my chest, I did not prep the skin, and the solution appears to have absorbed at different rates.

I'll post more pictures as this peel progresses.

Sunscreen Sunblock Review: LaRoche-Posay Anthelios 40 SPF

Sunscreen Sunblock Review: La Roche-Posay Anthelios 40 Suncreen with Mexoryl (US Version)


Active Ingredients: Avobenzone 2%, Ecamsule 3%, Octocrylene 10%, Titanium Dioxide 5%; Other Ingredients: Carbomer 940, Carbomercopolymer Type B, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Edetate Disodium,Glycerin, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Isopropyl Palmitate, Methylparaben, Phenoxyethanol, Polyvinyl Pyrrolidone, Eicosene Copolymer,Propyleneglycol, Propylparaben, Purified Water, Stearic Acid,Stearoyl Macrogolglycerides, Stearyl Alcohol, Trolamine

This is a combination of chemical and physical sunscreen agents (see ingredients above); most are chemical.

PROS:
  • Not greasy looking or greasy feeling
  • No break outs for me
  • Fragrance free
  • Allergy-tested
  • Broad spectrum protection (UVA and UVB)
  • Photostable – the Mexoryl makes the 2% avobenzone stable, which means it doesn't break down when exposed to UV rays (don't you think that's important in a sunscreen ;)

CONS:
  • EWG rating of 2, but note that some ingredients receive 5 and 6: “Allergies/immunotoxicity, Organ system toxicity (non-reproductive), Irritation (skin, eyes, or lungs), Contamination concerns (NITROSAMINES), Occupational hazards”
  • Too many chemicals
  • Too reflective, even with powder
  • Feels dry, so I have to wear additional moisturizer under it
  • Pricey at nearly $25 for less than 2 oz.
  • Application - a tricky product to apply: it's thick and white. The only way it worked for me was to rub it between my fingers to warm it then pat it on my face (not rubbing or trying to spread).
La Roche-Posay Anthelios 40 Suncreen with Mexoryl (US Version)

Sunscreen Sunblock Review: Aubrey Saving Face SPF 15

Sunscreen Sunblock Review: Aubrey Saving Face SPF 15

My gripe with Aubrey Organics is that it’s not really organic; they had to remove the word "organic" from their packaging so that Whole Foods would continue to stock it on their shelves--according to an employee there with whom I spoke in person, since Aubrey doesn't comply with the FDA's definition of organic. In the end, I’m glad they’re removing the word Organic from their name, but they wouldn’t be doing it if they didn’t have to, which means (to me) that there’s an inclination to be deceptive to the public, which is, unfortunately, akin to many sunscreen manufacturers.

Active Ingredient: INCI: Zinc oxide 12% Inactive Ingredients: INCI: Purified water, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) oil*, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil*, galactoarabinan, glyceryl stearate, cetearyl alcohol, stearic acid and sodium cocoyl glutamate, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter*, camellia sinensis seed oil*, brassica campestris-aleurites fordi oil copolymer, aloe barbadensis (aloe) leaf juice*, glycerin, epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, glyceryl caprylate and glyceryl undecylenate, leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, lonicera japonica (honeysuckle) flower extract, lonicera caprifolium (honeysuckle) flower extract, populus tremuloides bark extract, gluconolactone, tocopherol (vitamin E), citric acid, xanthan gum. *Organic

Bottom line: I would consider using this during the winter if it weren't so reflective.

PROS:
  • Physical sunblock (12% zinc oxide)--not chemical-based sunscreen
  • EWG rating of 2, which is better than most (and all the inactive ingredients have a low hazard rating, but why so many?)
  • Didn't break me out
  • Not too greasy, not too matte
  • Includes many moisturizers, so I don’t have to wear my moisturizer under it
  • Unscented
  • Reasonable price
CONS:
  • Low SPF, which means winter use only
  • Ingredient list is longer than I like for such a low SPF
  • Bit of a white cast for such a low amount of zinc
  • Too reflective, even with powder for my mature skin
Aubrey Saving Face SPF 15

Sunscreen Sunblock Review: Neutrogena - Spectrum 100+ SPF

Sunscreen Sunblock Review - Neutrogena Spectrum Sunblock, SPF 100

I have been unable to tolerate chemical-based sunscreens for some time now, but I decided to give a few a try since many companies are formulating chemical sunscreens to be photostable (meaning that sun filtering agents will retain their ability to continue protecting the skin upon exposure to sunlight) because the FDA has finally decided to regulate this industry.

PROS:
  • Photostable now with changed formula
  • Broad spectrum - UVA (aging) and UVB (burning) protection
  • Not shiny or reflective although there’s a bit of a dewey sheen
  • Does not feel greasy
  • Didn’t cause break outs, but I applied only twice

CONS:
  • Unsafe - EWG rating of 7: “High health concerns… Developmental/reproductive toxicity, Endocrine disruption, Allergies/immunotoxicity, Persistence and bioaccumulation, Enhanced skin absorption, Biochemical or cellular level changes…”
  • Long list of ingredients that look scary, and not just to me
  • Second day of use, I developed a bad rash with small welts and itching; couldn’t get this off fast enough!
  • Fragrance added is too strong for m
  • Don't like the cap; a pump would be better

Sunscreen Sunblock Review: Pratima Neem Rose 30 SPF


Sunscreen Sunblock Review: Pratima Neem Rose Sunscreen 30 SPF Sunblock

Ingredients: ionized water, non-nano micronized zinc oxide 18.6%, organic extracts of neem, brahmi, shatavari, licorice, wheat germ oil, vitamin e, lecithin, organic essential oil of rose, xanthan gum.

I like this product, but I can only use it on certain areas (see pros and cons below). This sunscreen sunblock is available only via Pratima’s website, so order with caution. I ordered two canisters, and I will finish them since it’s a natural product that I can use on my body. I now use it primarily on my neck, eyes, above my lip, and chest.

PROS:
  • Physical, not chemical-based
  • Natural-based product (although I do not like the recent addition of wheat germ oil)
  • No preservatives
  • Scent is pleasant
  • Moisturizing: seems to plump up my skin temporarily, so I’ve been wearing it above my lip and on my eyes lately
  • Does not sting or irritate my skin

CONS:
  • Very oily, runny consistency
  • Difficult to diminish shine with powder because it has a luminous quality
  • Price for shipping is high, and it's difficult to return
  • Available only online
  • Causes breakouts but only on my trouble area (chin)

Could not find a rating for this product on EWG’s website.  Also note that some reviews online cite less-than-expected sun protection, but I haven’t experienced that since I wear hats, sunglasses, etc., when I'm outside.

Sunscreen Sunblock Review: Bare Minerals 25 SPF Veil

Bare Escentuals bareMinerals SPF 25 Mineral Veil

I really liked the idea of this powder, but it didn't work for me. Because it’s a finishing veil, it’s finely milled and supposed to hide flaws. Although it looked flawless when I first applied it, it quickly settled into every line and accentuated them.

When I looked into my rear view mirror on the way to work the 2nd day I wore it, I gasped with horror!
Make sure you check this in different lighting and at different times after application.

Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide 14.4%, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Corn Starch Modified, Zinc Stearate, Silica, Magnesium Stearate. MAY CONTAIN: Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides.

PROS:
  • Covers the shine from my physical sunblock lotion
  • Augments my sunblock lotion with additional sun protection
  • Powder which I need anyway to minimize the shine from my sunblock lotion
  • Physical, not chemical-based sunblock or sunscreen
  • SPF is 25+ which is high for a powder
  • Two shades to choose from : sheer and tinted (sheer is just a bit pink; I didn’t try the other one)
  • Free of Parabens, Sulfates, Synthetic Fragrances, Synthetic Dyes, Petro-Chemicals, and Phthalates
  • The new packaging has a lock that keeps the powder from sifting out if it rolls around in my bag
CONS:
  • EWG rating of 7, which is bad, but I didn't understand that rating since the individual ingredients received no higher than a 3; however, I believe because the sunblock is in a powder form, there is a high probability that one may inhale it, which can be carcinogenic
  • Accentuates too many flaws for my mature skin (may look good on younger skin)
  • Feels dry, even on top of my sunblock lotion
  • Leaves a white cast; the tinted option may not do this
  • It’s expensive at $15 for 6 grams, but if it looked good, I’d be willing to part with that cash for the extra sun protection!
Bare Escentuals bareMinerals SPF 25 Mineral Veil

My Favorite Sunblock or Sunscreen

It's been sunny and in the 70s and 80s for the last week in the Chicago area. This is an unusually early thawing for us, but I'll take it. We will, no doubt, get days or even weeks of low temperatures again, but there's no question that it's that time of year again: time to dedicate myself to protecting my skin from sun damage by using sunscreen or sunblock.

I've spoken with two dermatologists, and they both confirm the same thing: wearing sunscreen or sunblock to protect the skin is far superior to using any serum, cream, or even performing chemical peels--in terms of the benefits it can impart.

The biggest problem for me has been finding a sunscreen or sunblock that works for/with a myriad of issues: safety, oily/dry skin, breaking out, makeup, heavy or light, appearance; and the list could go on depending upon the time or year or even the time of the month!

So the question is not Should I wear sunscreen or sunblock? The question remains, Which sunscreen or sunblock should I use? to protect my skin from future damage and to preserve what I've achieved with my chemical peels so far.

I wish I felt more enthusiastic about wearing sunscreen or sunblock, but it has become my nemesis: if it's safe, it's too oily; if it doesn't break me out, it looks bad; if it looks good, it irritates my skin. I've spent countless dollars and time experimenting with different sunscreens and sunblocks, and I'm ready to share my reviews.

My skin is different from yours, so my reactions or comments about a sunscreen or sunblock may not reflect your preference or reaction to a sunscreen or sunblock, so I always suggest that people try different products until they find the one that works (or at least works better than others).

Although I've found a sunblock that works well for me, it's not perfect. I've had to sacrifice to find a balance. I've been using Keys Solar Rx Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Sunblock Lotionfor over a year now, but I've been trying others (with intermittent success) to see if I can find a product that meets all my criteria: safe, nonirritating, noncomedogenic, aesthetically appealing, affordable, high spf, easy/simple to use, etc.

Over the next several weeks, I will share my reviews of other sunscreens and sunblocks I've tried during the last 2-3 years. Although many have met some of my criteria, none have met as many as Keys Solar Rx Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Sunblock Lotion


PROS:
  • Simple Ingredient list: nano zinc-oxide (20%), shea butter (10%), avocado oil, carrot seed oil, black cumin oil, essential oil blend, purified water, vegetable glycerin, vegetable wax, and rosemary extract.
  • 100% vegan
  • UVA 4 star rating and 30+ SPF (UVA and UVB protection)
  • Moisturizing (I can go without moisturizer, which keeps my routine simple and fast)
  • Therapeutic (think zinc for diaper rash: calms any irritation that I may have from chemical peels or retin-a)
  • Causes NO breakouts, spots, bumps, or pimples for me
  • 100% chemical free - this is not a chemical-based sunblock or sunscreen: with my chemical peels and retin-a use, I cannot tolerate chemical-based sunscreens: they sting and irritate my skin
  • Does NOT accentuate flaws or fine lines
  • NO shimmery or reflective look that some mineral-based makeups have
  • Some ability to balance the look of my skin tone (the zinc hides some discoloration)
  • EWG rating of 1, which means it's safe
I had mixed feelings about the use of nano-sized particles, but I have read several clinical studies that show safety:
Human skin penetration of sunscreen nanoparticles: in-vitro assessment of a novel micronized zinc oxide formulation.

Imaging of zinc oxide nanoparticle penetration in human skin in vitro and in vivo

CONS:
  • Feels greasy when I first apply it (but I make myself remember that these oils are good)
  • Looks shiny (I have to apply powder)
  • Has a bit of a white cast if I apply too much (but I am able to use a darker powder on top if needed)
  • Cost is a bit high, but one container lasts six months
  • SPF isn't as high as I'd like
Have you used sunscreen or sunblock that you love? Please share! I'll share one review a day until I work my way through all the sunscreens and sunblocks I've tried.

30% TCA Patch Test Done

It took nine (9) full days for the 30% TCA chemical peelpatch test to peel and heal. Here are pictures from the application and days 4-6.

Here's day seven:
30% TCA patch test, day 7

Day eight:
30% TCA Patch Test, day 8
Day nine (the scab came off in the shower, probably a day before it should have):
30% TCA Patch Test, day nine
It's been two full weeks now since I applied the 30% TCA chemical peel, and the area is still pink. I think this is a very strong peel for DIY, so I'm just not sure it's something I want to do (yet). I will stick with my 25% TCA chemical peelsfor now...

30% TCA Patch Test: days 4-6

See days 0-2.  See application. 

Today is day 6, with day 0 being the day I applied the 30% TCA chemical peel patch test.

There was a tiny bit of flaking around the edges on day four:
30% TCA patch test, day 4
The area is peeling now on day 6. I took this picture just after waking, so there's really no moisture on it at all. Fortunately, it's hidden behind my hair. Not sure if I could do this to my whole face. I think I'd need at least a full work week plus two weekends...
30% TCA patch test, day 6 am

30% TCA Patch Test: Days 0-2

Click here to read about the application of my 30% facial TCA chemical peel patch test.

Here's the frost just after applying the 3rd layer:
30% TCA frost
Day 1 - (24 hours post application): there was quite a bit of swelling with this strength of TCA, although it's not apparent in the photo taken 24 hours after the application:

30% TCA - day 1


Day 2 (48 hours): The swelling has gone down, and now the area is very red and becoming leathery:
30% TCA - day 2
I'll post more pictures as this test patch progresses.

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Gabi

30% TCA Facial Patch Test

I did a patch test with a 30% TCA chemical peel solution because I want to do a deep peel in a couple of weeks, but I need to see how a large area of my facial skin will react to this high a percentage of TCA chemical peel. 

After cleansing with Cetaphil (no alcohol prep this time) I swabbed three quick layers on one temple where my hair always falls so I can do the patch test without downtime. I let the solution work for one (1) minute, then I applied shea butter. I followed it about 15 minutes later with a very thin layer of Cu3 complex. 

Surprisingly, it didn’t hurt at all until about 20 minutes after the application! And then it HURT! So, I had to find out why. This is what I found on the John Hopkins Medical site

“Anesthesia is not usually required for TCA peels because the chemical solution acts as an anesthetic.” This makes total sense now: I’d wondered why my 50% spot treatments didn’t hurt…

Here are pictures from before to after the 3rd layer of 30% TCA chemical peel application.  I’ll post more pictures this week as it progresses.

BEFORE
Just after the 1st Layer
Just after the 2nd Layer

Just after the 3rd Layer

Please do not use my personal experience as a replacement for medical advice. You should always consult your medical partner(s) when considering chemical peels. This blog is provided for information only.